A version of this article was first published in Mountain Journal, a digital magazine covering wildlife and wild lands in Greater Yellowstone.
Arnold "Smoke" Elser is a storyteller, but he's not a big reader. In his office, tucked into a faded red barn built around 1900 in Missoula, Montana, an entire wall of shelves contains binders and books on wilderness policy and regulations. They're more work than pleasure for Elser; he waves them off with an air of modesty. It's the mules strolling by the barn window that give him pleasure. The mules are a big part of why Elser was able to travel as muc...
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